1 — What Are Pigmentation Spots?
Pigmentation spots are areas of the skin where melanin production is higher than in the surrounding skin.
They can appear in different shapes and sizes and may be caused by several factors, including:
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Sun exposure: UV rays stimulate melanocytes — the cells responsible for melanin production — which can lead to hyperpigmentation.
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Hormonal changes: Conditions such as melasma, often triggered by hormonal fluctuations during pregnancy or the use of hormonal contraceptives, can cause dark spots on the skin.
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Aging: As we age, the skin can develop age spots, also called lentigines, due to cumulative sun exposure over the years.
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Acne and scars: After inflammation or injury, the skin may heal by leaving a darker spot — a phenomenon known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
2 — Why Are Spots More Visible After Summer?
After summer, pigmentation spots often become more visible because the skin has been exposed to increased UV radiation, especially if adequate sun protection measures were not taken.
The skin’s natural tan may temporarily hide these spots, but as the tan fades, the brown spots tend to become more apparent.
3 — How to Treat This Hyperpigmentation
A — Gentle Skin Exfoliation: AHAs (Fruit Acids)
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Spot reduction and complexion improvement: by renewing the superficial layer of the skin.
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Acne and scar treatment: in addition to reducing spots, it can also help minimize acne scars and smooth skin texture.
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Skin texture transformation: it helps refine the skin’s grain and reduce the appearance of enlarged pores, offering a smoother and more even complexion.
B — Depigmenting Agents
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Hydroquinone (synthetic depigmenting agent): lightens the skin by strongly inhibiting melanin production (tyrosinase blocker).
Long-term side effects: peeling, irritation, dryness, photosensitivity.
Banned in cosmetics in Europe — consult a dermatologist. -
Alpha-arbutin (gentle, natural depigmenting agent derived from bearberry): lightens the skin by inhibiting melanin production (tyrosinase blocker).
In cosmetics, as of February, its potential endocrine-disrupting effect is under review. -
Kojic acid (natural depigmenting agent derived from a fungus): lightens the skin by inhibiting melanin production (tyrosinase blocker).
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Tranexamic acid (depigmenting and anti-inflammatory): lightens the skin, reduces hyperpigmentation, decreases inflammation, and soothes redness.
At Helwé, we offer a natural exfoliating and depigmenting mask: Masque Clarté (AHA, Kojic Acid).
C — Brightening and Antioxidant Agents (Skin Protectors)
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Vitamin C (natural, ascorbic acid): a powerful antioxidant and brightening agent.
At Helwé, we offer two Vitamin C serums: Sérum Radieux and Sérum Éclat. -
Licorice extract (natural): anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and brightening by inhibiting melanin production.
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Niacinamide (nature-identical, laboratory-synthesized): antioxidant, brightening, and anti-inflammatory; also helps soothe redness.
D — Cellular Renewers
They accelerate cell renewal and exfoliate dead skin cells, helping to eliminate melanin-loaded cells. The skin appears brighter and more even.
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Retinol and Retinal,
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Bakuchiol (natural): delivers the effects of retinol without irritation, and also provides antibacterial benefits.
At Helwé, we offer the Sérum Perfection, combining Bakuchiol and Niacinamide.
E — SPF
The most important step in treating and preventing hyperpigmentation.
Many studies have shown that regular use of sunscreen can visibly improve existing dark spots by preventing their long-term fixation.
This protection must be continuous.
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Non-nano zinc oxide provides broad-spectrum physical protection against UVA and UVB rays by reflecting them without penetrating the skin — making it less irritating and suitable for sensitive skin.
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Astaxanthin is a powerful natural antioxidant that protects the skin from oxidative stress caused by UV rays and pollution, helping limit the formation of free radicals responsible for aging and pigmentation.
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Vitamin C helps brighten the skin by inhibiting melanin production, promotes skin repair, and boosts antioxidant defenses.
This type of mineral and antioxidant formula therefore combines effective sun protection with a preventive action against cellular damage that leads to pigmentation spots and skin aging.
