After summer sun exposure, your complexion is dull and uneven, and your face is covered in pigmented spots.
What are the active ingredients that help reduce skin hyperpigmentation? What helwé products include these ingredients?
Brown spots on the skin can be reduced by using several active ingredients. These have different and complementary modes of action on melanocytes (the cells responsible for melanin production).
In the Helwe range, we offer a trio of the most effective ingredients to fight dark spots and give the skin a radiant glow:
1- AHA/BHA:
AHA is present in Lotion Exfoliante Peau Parfaite and Lotion Exfoliante Peau Douce.
Our skin cells renew themselves with an average cycle of 28 days. Lotion Exfoliante Peau Parfaite, which is primarily composed of fruit acids (primarily lactic and glycolic acids) and salicylic acid, helps accelerate this cell renewal cycle, allowing you to get rid of blemishes faster.
Lotion Exfoliante Peau Parfaite gently exfoliates the skin without being aggressive. It contains aloe vera and hydrolats... It is recommended for nightly use on normal, combination and oily skin types.
For those with very sensitive skin, there is a lotion based on lactic acid, the Lotion Exfoliante Peau Douce.. Lactic acid is a larger molecule that does not penetrate deeply into the skin, resulting in a milder exfoliation, making it suitable for those with sensitive skin.
Other natural ingredients have also been shown to be effective in reducing "dark spots".
2- Vitamin C:
i) L-Ascorbic Acid (Sérum Radieux)
Vitamin C must be in the form of L-ascorbic acid to effectively penetrate the skin. L-ascorbic acid is one of the most powerful and effective antioxidants. In addition to its wrinkle-fighting and collagen-boosting properties, it enhances skin radiance and delivers visible results in the reduction of pigmentation.
In the Sérum Radieux, it is present at an effective dose of 10%, which prevents it from destabilizing. It is also combined with 0.5% ferulic acid and 1% vitamin E, three powerful antioxidants that work deep within the skin to neutralize free radicals, the primary cause of premature skin aging. L-Ascorbic Acid should be applied in the morning as it enhances the effectiveness of SPF and provides better skin protection. It is optional for night time use, and at Helwe we recommend using another liposoluble vitamin C at night.
ii)Tetrahexyl Ascorbate (Sérum Eclat)
This vitamin C is liposoluble, which means it penetrates the skin much better than other vitamin C derivatives and is well tolerated. It's currently a star ingredient because, like L-Ascorbic Acid, it also boosts collagen, which most vitamin C derivatives do not. Sérum Eclat contains 10% of this liposoluble vitamin C, which is highly effective because it penetrates twice as well as hydrosoluble vitamin C and is better tolerated by the skin.
The serum's pH is balanced to suit all skin types, including sensitive skin.
This vitamin C is especially beneficial in the morning before going to the beach because it's liposoluble and helps prevent dehydration caused by seawater or chlorinated pool water.
It's also great for night time use as it deeply hydrates the skin thanks to its high jojoba and macadamia oil content, giving your skin a radiant, non-comedogenic glow.
In the anti-pigmentation protocol, we recommend using Sérum Eclat in the morning before going to the beach or instead of Sérum Radieux for those with dry and sensitive skin. In the summer, it helps to combat skin hyperpigmentation, especially when used in the evening after Perfection Serum (plant-based retinol).
3- Bakuchiol ( Plant Based Retinol)
Bakuchiol, also known as plant-based retinol, is found in Sérum Perfection and Crème Jeunesse. It is a derivative of vitamin A and serves as a natural alternative to retinol without the side effect of irritation and photosensitivity. Bakuchiol acts on wrinkles, hydration, acne, and also inhibits melanin production, reducing pigmentation spots. Perfection Serum contains the maximum dosage of 1% bakuchiol.
4- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Niacinamide, the active form of vitamin B3, is found in Sérum Perfection and Sérum Longévité. Niacinamide provides many benefits to the skin. It helps fight skin aging by stimulating collagen synthesis, reduces redness and irritation, and has anti-inflammatory properties. It also protects the skin barrier, making it effective in the treatment of acne.
Niacinamide reduces hyperpigmentation and evens out skin tone. Sérum Perfection contains 5% niacinamide (the recommended maximum dosage) in combination with 1% bakuchiol, also at the recommended maximum dosage.
By combining all these different active ingredients, we can target pigmentation in different ways, effectively and naturally treating dark spots faster.
So what is the best skincare routine to reduce hyperpigmentation?
Morning:
-Crème énergie (sample)
Evening:
-Lotion Exfoliante Peau Parfaite or Peau Douce
-Sérum éclat (sample)
Time for some masks!
Masks can be a valuable addition to your daily skin care routine, especially when it comes to refining the texture of your skin and restoring its radiance more quickly.
In the Masque Clarté, we combine AHA with Kojic Acid, which is found primarily in certain Japanese mushrooms. These two complementary ingredients work together to actively target blemishes and pigmentation. This natural, AHA-rich mask can be used 2 to 3 times a week in place of a daily exfoliation.
In the Masque Radieux, we have incorporated powerful antioxidants such as vitamins C, E and resveratrol. This helps prepare your skin for sun exposure and reduces the risk of pigmentation spots. We recommend using this mask 2 to 3 times a week in the morning before your morning skincare routine. Not only will it help prevent dark spots, but it will also give your skin a boost of radiance.
In addition to skin care, it is recommended to:
1. Protect yourself from the sun to prevent new spots:
- Wear a hat
- Use a sunscreen with mineral SPF protection as they provide better skin protection. Helwe is currently working on a mineral SPF product.
2. Include antioxidant-rich foods in your diet:
- Citrus fruits, blackberries, blueberries, broccoli, kiwi, kale, mangoes, raspberries and more are excellent sources of vitamin C.
- Vitamin A, in the form of beta-carotene, is extremely beneficial to your diet. It contributes to skin formation and renewal. Beta-carotene is an orange pigment found in foods such as carrots, apricots, nectarines, mangoes, and others. The body converts beta-carotene to vitamin A as it is absorbed.
