Wrinkles are women’s number one enemy! Fine lines and wrinkles start to appear as soon as we hit the age of 30 ... And once they show up, getting rid of them becomes quiet challenging. Following is an overview of the causes of wrinkles, and the various ways of preventing and treating them.
1- Definition, origins and causes of wrinkles
A- What are wrinkles?
A wrinkle is a rupture or breakout in the skin caused by the decrease in collagen and elastin, two essential proteins for the skin elasticity.
It is important to differentiate between fine lines and wrinkles. Skin ridges that vary from 0.2 to 1 millimeter are considered fine lines. When their depth exceeds 1 millimeter, they are then considered wrinkles.
B-Types of wrinkles
We can distinguish between two main types of wrinkles, according to two formation processes:
1-Expression lines
"Expression wrinkles”, or "dynamic wrinkles", are linked to repeated contractions of the face’s muscles. Over the years, as the skin loses its elasticity, these folds -which do not change much-, end up marking the skin tissues. This is how transverse forehead wrinkles, frown lines, and crow's feet are born.
2-Aging wrinkles
Also known as "static wrinkles", aging wrinkles result from sagging skin linked to age, as well as to the effects of external aging factors such as the sun (they develop on the neck, décolleté, lips area, etc.)
C- Causes of wrinkles
Internal factors of skin aging:
.Natural cell aging (genetically determined): Over time, the skin's maintenance mechanisms starts to deteriorate. The rate of cell renewal slows down, the activity of the sebaceous and sweat glands decreases, and the dermis loses elasticity. As a result, the skin is less firm, and wrinkles deepen.
.Oxidative stress: Our cells are the constant prey of oxidative attacks from free radicals. The resistance capacity of cells is genetically determined. However, it can be improved by a diet rich in antioxidants.
.Hormonal aging: The decrease in estrogen secretion experienced over time (especially during menopause) is associated with a decrease in the production of collagen and elastin, two essential elements for skin elasticity.
External factors of skin aging:
.The sun: The harmful effects of excessive sun exposure are now well recognized; ultraviolet rays slow down the production of elastin in the dermis and weaken the cells of the epidermis.
.Tobacco: The toxic products contained in cigarettes alter the vascular network necessary for the irrigation of skin tissues. They also break down certain components of the dermis, especially hyaluronic acid.
.Atmospheric pollution: It accelerates skin aging by lowering its immune system.
.Stress: It is believed that stress increases the production of free radicals responsible for the premature aging of cells.
.Lack of hydration: Skin dehydration is an important factor in the appearance of wrinkles. The more dehydrated the skin, the more pronounced and deep the wrinkles become.
.Lack of sleep: This factor is believed to accelerate skin aging the same way as stress does.
2-How to prevent wrinkles and rejuvenate your skin
A few tips that will help prevent, improve and maintain a young and firm skin:
- Facial gymnastics, which consists of strengthening the entire face, is a simple and effective technique. It is possible to adapt the movements to the areas of the face that are most predisposed to wrinkles, such as the forehead, around the eyes and around the lips.
- Face massages can also help prevent wrinkles.
- A well-balanced diet rich in fruits and vegetables can help fight premature skin aging.
- Supplements rich in antioxidants such as Q10, vitamin E, vitamin C (in food).
- Drinking plenty of water.
- Sports: practicing a physical activity three hours a week, regardless of your age.
- Sleeping well.
-You can follow helwé skin care products and routine, both of which can greatly improve your skin. They allow you to prevent and treat wrinkles. Our routine is based on three phases:
Phase 1: Double cleaning (using a cleansing oil and a mist)
The oil will capture lipophilic molecules present on the skin such as sebum and makeup products much more effectively than a liquid solution. Even waterproof makeup will gently dissolve. This type of cleansing will thoroughly free the skin of all the impurities accumulated during the day. This method makes it possible to properly oxygenate the skin, therefore delaying skin aging. After removing the oil with a cotton ball soaked in water, spray the Revitalizing Mist, which is invigorating, astringent and anti-aging thanks to the properties of the hydrosols.
This double cleansing is suitable for all skin types, including oily ones. It moisturizes the skin, prevents clogging of the pores, and protects the skin from any damage.
Phase 2: Gentle exfoliation (two types)
*Based on fruit acids: By virtue of their "peeling" effect and their action on cell renewal, AHAs smooth wrinkles, regulate and brighten complexion. They diminish pigment spots and skin irregularities.
*Based on Salicylic acid: Its keratolytic action promotes the elimination of dead cells. It also gently exfoliates, helping the epidermis regain its radiance and beauty. But also thanks to its astringent and antibacterial properties, Salicylic acid improves the appearance of large pores, regulates the overproduction of sebum and reduces inflammation on problematic skins, resulting in less acne and fewer blackheads.
Phase 3: Care (the treatment phase using serums and creams)
This treatment phase includes a serum which is usually followed by an additional serum and / or a cream which will have synergistic anti-wrinkle effects.
3- What are the natural anti wrinkle molecules?
1- The cells regenerating:
Bakuchiol and Retinol: They promote cell regeneration, giving a smoother skin texture. They also tighten pores, and help reduce pigment spots. The triple-action combination of Retinol, Bakuchiol and vitamin B3 boosts skins that suffer from collagen deficiency. It also targets fine lines, deep wrinkles and loss of firmness. This combination is found in helwé's Sérum Perfection (Anti-Blemish Serum)
-helwé products that contain Bakuchiol: Masque Clarté (Fair Skin Mask),Crème Jeunesse (Forever Young Cream)
Centella Asiatica also known as “Beauty Treasure”
Centella Asiatica is a powerful revitalizing and skin regenerator. It has an anti-wrinkle and firming action thanks to two of its components, asiaticoside and madecassoside. These two components stimulate the cells of the dermis, as well as several types of collagens. It is also rich in antioxidants which help fight aging.
-helwé products that contain Centella Asiatica: Crème Éternelle(Cream of Eternity), Masque Éternel (Mask of Eternity)
2- Antioxidants:
Antioxidants fight the action of free radicals which are responsible for skin aging, and cell degeneration. These oxidizing molecules are caused by the sun, cigarettes, stress, pollution, fatigue and a poor lifestyle, artificial lights -including the ones found in computers-, etc. Antioxidants should be used on a daily basis as they allow the skin to fight oxidative stress in a natural way without damaging the skin.
There is no specific age to start using them. The earlier the better as they play a preventive role in the development of wrinkles.
These antioxidants are:
Vitamin C: It is an anti spot, and boosts the production of elastic fibers and collagen. It accelerates healing and protects cells from oxidation.
-helwé products that contain vitamin C: Sérum Radieux (Radiant Serum), Sérum Éclat (Radiance Serum), Sérum Hyalo C Yeux Velours (Hyalo C Velvet Eyes Serum), Masque Radieux (Radiant Serum)
Resveratrol: Is a natural Polyphenol known for its powerful anti-free radical properties. It helps fight oxidative stress and slows down the appearance of wrinkles and skin spots.
-helwé products that contain Resveratrol: Sérum Longévité (Long Life Serum), Lotion Exfoliante Peau Douce (Soft Skin Exfoliating Lotion),Sérum Hyalo C Yeux Velours (Hyalo C Velvet Eyes Serum), Masque Radieux (Radiant Serum)
Coenzyme Q10: Is a powerful antioxidant that protects against free radicals, including UV rays. It fights the breakdown of collagen and slows down wrinkle formation. Q10 reduces the depth of the wrinkles, and last but not least, it stimulates the production of energy on a cellular level.
-helwé products that contain Q10: Crème Énergie (Energy Cream) , Sérum Hyalo C Yeux Velours (Hyalo C Velvet Eyes Serum),Crème Mains Prodigieuses.
Vitamin E: We use vitamin E as a preservative in our oily formulas. In our serums, it is combined with vitamin C, Resveratrol and coenzyme Q10. These combinations have synergistic effects which increase by tenfold the antioxidant potency of skin care products.
-helwé products that contain vitamin E: Booster d'Énergie (Energy Booster) , Sérum Longévité (Long Life Serum), Sérum Hydrance Yeux Glamours (Glamorous Eyes Hydrance), Hyalo C Yeux Velours (Hyalo C Velvet Eyes Serum), Sérum Radieux (Radiant Serum), Sérum Éclat (Radiance Serum), Crème Prodigieuse (Prodigious Cream), Crème Énergie (Energy Cream) ,Masque Radieux (Radiant Serum)
Vitamin A (also known as Retinol): Vitamin A is an extremely sensitive element, as it loses its potency as soon as it comes into contact with oxygen. In cosmetics, it is most often found in its purest? precursor form which is transformed into Vitamin A once it becomes in contact with the skin.
-helwé products that contain Vitamin A: Sérum Perfection (Anti-Blemish Serum)
Sea Buckthorn vegetable oil: Thanks to its antioxidants, Sea Buckthorn is ideal for stressed out and tired skins. It contains vitamin F which smoothens the epidermis, stimulates cell regeneration and slows down the aging process. It is therefore a powerful anti-aging and a skin brightener.
-helwé products that contain Sea Buckthorn oil: Sérum Nuit Essentielle (Revitalized Night Serum), Huile des Sens (Sensual Oil), Sérum Radieux (Radiant Serum), Sérum Éclat (Radiance Serum)
3- Moisturizing and plumping:
Hyaluronic Acid: Is very effective and well- known for its intense moisturizing and plumping functions. At a low molecular weight, Hyaluronic Acid is used as a wrinkle filler, in addition to helping firm the skin. In fact, molecules with low molecular weight will penetrate the skin more effectively. They will become saturated with water and stimulate the fibroblasts. The high molecular weight hyaluronic acid will protect the skin from external environmental agents (pollution, smoke, etc.). In this case, hyaluronic acid plays a role of barrier against the attacks of free radicals, as well as that of a sponge (by preventing water evaporation). In most of our helwé serums and creams, we use a mixture of the two.
-helwé products that contain hyaluronic acid: Sérum Longévité (Long Life Serum), Sérum Hydratation Intense (Intense Hydration Serum), Émulsion Active (Active Lotion), Crème Éternelle(Cream of Eternity),Crème Prodigieuse (Prodigious Cream), Crème Énergie (Energy Cream), Masque Pulpeux (Plumping Mask) , Masque Éternel (Mask of Eternity), Sérum Hydrance Yeux Glamours (Glamorous Eyes Hydrance), Regard Prodigieux.
Royal Jelly: Its composition which is rich in nutrients (lipids, carbohydrates, proteins, vitamins, minerals) gives Royal Jelly remarkable nutritional and energizing properties. It also helps prevent premature aging while limiting the appearance of pigment spots
-helwé products that contain Royal Jelly: Crème Prodigieuse (Prodigious Cream), Regard Prodigieux, Mains Prodigieuses, Crème Énergie (Energy Cream), Masque Clarté (Fair Skin Mask)
